St. Patrick's Day/Cinco de Drinko

Note: this post will be updated and infused with pictures at a later time

I've discovered something that I and virtually everyone else loves dearly: a great irony. After spending a first half of St. Patrick's Day in Dublin, I've discovered that the holiday is about American ex-pats and American visitors. I slot myself into the "ex-pat" category because I'm using the "visitor" category to refer to tourists who showed up here specifically for St. Patrick's, which I am not.

We rose at 9:15am, because we'd planned an early morning kickoff. 66 eggs were purchased yesterday in anticipation of a "Kegs n' Eggs" event to start St. Patrick's Day in our apartment. In another ironic twist, because St. Patrick's Day is a national holiday in Ireland, and no one works, businesses, including alcohol vendors, are not in operation for the majority of the day. There's a further reason for this - in days of yore when stores did remain open, they sold out of their entire supply of alcohol early in the day, much of which fell into the hands of underage drinkers, and the city essentially deteriorated into an anarchic war-zone. Even still, most businesses, shops, cafes, and even some pubs closed early last night in preparation. It reminds me of the way coastal areas prepare for a hurricane, what with everyone boarding and barricading everything up - literally, and then fleeing to their homes or rural parts of Ireland.

Luckily we managed to purchase a fair amount of "groceries" yesterday to have enough for the morning. We served up egg sandwiches for about 20 people, and with the nice weather we were able to open our windows and party until around 12:30. At that point we left for the city center to try to catch the parade. Supposedly 500k non-Dubliners were in downtown Dublin today, so needless to say it was pretty tight going. Nicole and Jaci and I found a place close enough to the road for me to hold up a camera, snap pictures, and tell them what was going on. It lasted about 2 hours. We had to smash up against a multitude of people with tricolors painted on their faces, floppy foam hats, fake red beards, and "kiss me, I'm Irish" paraphernalia.

The big "I hate mankind" facet of this holiday is that young hooligans (in this country, everyone between the ages of 12 and 18 is a free-roaming, vandalizing, misdemeanor-committing hooligan) were out in force today with a new weapon: whistles. "Tell us about the whistles." "The whistles? 'Dey go woo-WOOOO" No, not Bubb-Rub whistles, and not just "Only in the morning." Referee-type whistles, that were blown incessantly throughout the day by Ireland's future prison occupants and single parents.

Anyway, the irony lay in the fact that probably 65% of the parade consisted of marching bands, and easily 90% of those marching bands were American. Auburn University was probably the showcase of the group, with a few other tertiary institutions represented and tons of high schools. I took the liberty of screaming "SEC! Skeeeeeeeew!" as Auburn passed. The non-band part of the parade were people dressed up like psychedelic zombies, bugs, space aliens, and fish that make even the soberest of revelers feel like they're on acid.

Taking into account that despite the size and extensiveness of Dublin's St. Patrick's Day festival, I understand that those of Boston, Chicago, and New York are far, far more involved (they don't dye the river green here, for instance), it seems that in the U.S. St. Patrick's Day is for Americans to act like they're Irish, and in Ireland its a day for Americans to feel like they're at home. There were literally so many Americans on the street today that I felt like I was in an American city. Better still, the preponderance of band members, band directors, and band boosters on the street made me feel like I was at a band competition, an even more comfortable habitat of mine. So in sum, St. Patrick's Day in Ireland is a nice taste of home for us Americans. More to come later.

The Hell with Sports

A number of things went wrong today. Something was out of whack in the cosmic alignment. Some heathen god has not received its sacrifice.

Ireland 10 - 33 England
It was a sign of things to come this morning when I failed to rise early enough to make it to the library to do work before the 3:00 pm rugby kickoff. It was yet another sign when a mediocre English team took Ireland to task 33-10. In reality, I didn't actually see this match because The Barge was so packed out when we got there that we had to sit on the 3rd floor - where the staff were unwilling to change the channel off of the Manchester United vs. Derby County match. Not that I minded getting to see United...more on this later. England's big-name flyhalf Jonny Wilkinson was dropped from the squad in the run up to this match in favor of the younger Danny Cipriani. While I couldn't see the match, I could hear it over the loudspeakers in the pub, and I must have heard Cipriani's name called 50 times. (At his position, he would have done a lot of scoring through kicks and the like). A sad end for Ireland's 6-Nations campaign and probably the death knell for the manager.

Wales 29 - 12 France
Wales, with this final victory, secured the 6-Nations title and the "Grand Slam," which signifies an defeat of all teams in competition. I understand it was the 10th such Grand Slam for the Welsh, but I heard offhand that it hasn't been done in 101 years (this could be wrong). Apparently Wales has had quite a renaissance under new manager Warren Gatland, a Kiwi who I believe used to be on Ireland's coaching staff. I would very much enjoy seeing Wales face off against South Africa or New Zealand.

Manchester United 1 - 0 Derby County
Many of you are probably saying "Now, Jesse, obviously not everything went badly, you just wanted a dramatic intro to your post so you spat out some spastic nonsense." Well, here's what I'm saying to you. Derby County is probably the worst team that has ever played English Premier League football. (In case you don't know, the bottom 3 teams get relegated to a lower division each year to be replaced by the top 3 from that division, so the teams change). We didn't score until late in the game, and had countless missed opportunities. With every near miss or dink off the post, the players became visibly more frustrated. I think Ronaldo was crying at one point. He did something I haven't seen him do in years: look up into the sky and plead with God after missing a shot. He used to genuflect after doing this as well. When he finally knocked one home late in the 2nd half, he counted out his missed shots on his fingers - 5 I think, before celebrating. We've now reclaimed the top spot from Arsenal, with a game in hand. Oh yeah, and don't ever take that tone with me again. I don't like having to explain myself.

Tennessee 80something - 80something more Arkansas
Yeah, I don't actually know the final score. Why? Because when I saw what was going to happen, I just walked away from the computer. It may have actually been in the 90s for all I know. I'm not really sure who to blame for what happened. Suffice to say we got abused down low - and I do mean abused - but the fact that we committed a foul on every possession and got all of our players in foul trouble didn't help either. The refs controlled the pace of the game. Another reason I don't know the score is because I quit - I'm not looking it up on ESPN. For the last week I've been watching basketball every day, reading all the articles on ESPN about them, hell, I've even watched some NBA games, which if you know me is pretty bizarre. I was actually excited last night when tornadoes hit the Georgia Dome because I thought with the super late game I was going to get to have a basketball sleepover party with myself. But no more. Until I complete the process of getting over this game, the hell with sports. If we get a good draw on Selection Sunday, perhaps I'll quit being a bitch. For now, I'll stay one.

While writing this post, I set an all-time personal record for fart duration.

I've got a busy week ahead. Tomorrow, Jaci is arriving early (too early - before God gets up), so we'll have a guest in. Monday is obviously St. Patrick's Day, and it is going to be non stop mayhem in the city all day. Tuesday is my birthday, which doesn't matter here because I can already drink. Oh, and I need to finish two essays before we leave for Scotland next Sunday. The city is crawling with tourists, which get really annoying in a city like Dublin with bad infrastructure. A ramshackle carnival has been set up near Nicole's place of business. There are lots of carnies milling around (small hands, smell like cabbage). One of the rides is titled "American Adventure," and has an airbrushed mural behind it, the center-piece of which is Jerry Rice busting through a brick wall. When I first saw it, I began to laugh so abruptly that I snot-rocketed in front of some people on the sidewalk. It was worth it. I will try to get a photo of this immensely stupid attraction.

In other news, I threw an orange towel into my load of whites without thinking about what I was doing (I only have rights to the washer/dryer/iron maiden for 24 hours a week, sometimes things get desperate). Now, one half of my undershirts and socks are salmon. Is this a tragedy or am I going to be RICH because I'm the only person in the world with access to salmon-colored undershirts? Oh yeah, I forgot there's this store called American Apparel that sells nothing but blank t-shirts and zip-hoodies in every conceivable shade, and make tons of money off of punk-ass scene kids who think they're being fresh with a poorly coordinated neo-80s look. So much for that idea. I have a skin-tight pale yellow polo from there that's good for picking up guys at the Carousel. Not that I've ever done that. What?

I will try to document as well as possible what it's like to be in Dublin on St. Patrick's Day. I say "try" because typing takes small muscle control and we all know that's one of the first things you lose. In the meantime, I'm off to drown my sorrows in green tea and peanut-butter toast. Yeah, I can put honey on it and call it "dessert."

Howth & Misc

First of all, you may notice I gave the blog a facelift. I'm getting more familiar with some of the tools available on the Blogger and I'm trying to put them to use to make the blog more readable and aesthetically pleasing. You still have some time to vote in the "Blog Appearance" poll, but after it expires I'll add another one so that we're constantly engaging in statistical entertainment. Also, I'm looking at different ways to add media to the posts - you can put up videos and slideshows, but you need to interface with a Flickr or Photobucket album to make it happen, and I'm not sure I'm willing to go to the trouble of putting up photos on multiple sites. Also, I don't have a videocamera and the video on my digital camera lacks sound. Contact my parents at jmtumblin@aol.com to see about donating money for one.

Side Note: How galling must it be for people like writers and directors who have their work "Busted" by Mythbusters on national television to see that little Asian guy, with his squirrely little voice, holier-than-thou demeanor and perpetual sneer say stuff like "Yeah, this one is definitely busted. There's no way a 9mm could puncture a Propane tank and cause an explosion." Well guess what, Hirohito. Casino Royale is still more entertaining than your show, and Daniel Craig would shellack your candy ass.

Lennie and Joy (Nicole's parents) arrived on Thursday for a weeklong visit. They were able to fly first-class, which means their chairs reclined to almost horizontal position. Perhaps someday I will be able to enjoy such a privilege, but for the foreseeable future I'll have to settle for sitting between Andre the Giant and a single mother with octuplets in coach. We went out with Nicole's co-workers the first night they were here, which was great fun but raised a number of questions about her workplace. First, given the preponderance of shenanigans and buffoonery we saw out of her co-workers, I wonder how they're ever able to do business. Furthermore, given that we all drank on the company, out of something I heard called the "Social Fund," I wonder how any revenue isn't immediately liquidated (Literally).

On Friday I gave them a walking tour of Trinity and we visited the Book of Kells. Afterwards we met the Shanleys (Nicole's host-parents) for supper. We planned to go to Howth on Saturday, which is a harbor town north of Dublin, after watching the rugby match.

Ireland 12 - 16 Wales
Ireland had several stretches where they looked brilliant, with lots of swift ball movement and threatening play. Unfortunately, they were unable to maintain that pace, resulting in somewhat of a defensive struggle. Wales are the type of team that punish even the slightest mistake, and did so frequently. It was all over for Ireland when, down 12-13 and looking to get in position for a kick that could win them the game with 5 minutes left to play, an Irish player inexplicably drilled a sitting Welshman on the edge of a pileup, resulting in an immediate penalty that allowed Welsh assassin James Hook to put the game beyond reach. Ireland retain second place, but undefeated Wales, who captured the "Triple Crown" (defeating Ireland, England, and Scotland), look nigh certain to win the "Grand Slam" (defeating everyone).

Scotland 15 - 9 England
Scotland bagged their first win against sorry England, who look to be ending their tournament in ignominy. They'll be celebrating in Edinburgh, and eating their young in London.

After the match was over we started towards Howth. Joy was having shoe trouble and I led us on a pretty lengthy hike to the train station, decreasing in popularity all the while. Finally we caught the DART, and got off our feet.

Howth is not a very large place. It has an extensive dock and wharf area, and a few main roads with pubs and small establishments. There was some sun left, but the wind was pretty fast and made it bitter to stand out on the pier.

Nevertheless, we braved the elements to go out on the pier, and it yielded some photographic dividends - there were actually 2 rainbows. I'm assuming the pot o' gold was actually on the sea floor in this case, which would have made it too difficult to retrieve. As always, see the facebook album for more pretty rainbow pictures.

After walking around we repaired to an Asian Cafe - I say Asian not because it was themed as such but because it was staffed exclusively by such - for some coffee to raise our core temperatures. We then went to attempt to eat supper. Nicole's company had arranged for us to eat on them - yes, Nicole's hard, American work ethic and long hours have made the folks at her company feel guilty about the terms of her internship...she gets lots of little perks and favors like this. We were supposed to eat at a place called Wright's, but to our dismay, standing in the middle of Howth and looking at your surroundings, you would see no less than 3 establishments named "Wright's"...a few minutes and phone calls later we entered a restaurant called "The Findlater" above a pub called "Wright's".

Dinner was tasty. I had whole prawns with my steak, which are shrimp that are about as big as my hand with my fingers outstretched. They had their heads and eyes still attached, which made for great fun. They were delicious and I must say very competitive with American shrimp I've had. We also had some good desserts...I'm finding that my Lenten vow not to eat sweets or dessert has been difficult not to break, but in fairness I have opted out of countless opportunities in the preceding weeks.

I spent most of today cleaning, partially because I had essays to write and also because we're getting "inspected" this week by our program people. As I'm out of school I'll be working on my essays and not much else during the days, so you might expect some more frequent blogeration from me. We have upcoming visits by Jaci and a trip to Scotland this month, as well as, of course, St. Patrick's Day/My Birthday. As I write, we're going through what some of the Sunday tabloids have called "The Storm of the Century." Supposedly there's a high tide, a new moon, and a massive storm system all at once, and last time this happened 47% (made-up) of Dublin flooded. I stuffed newspapers in all our windows today to help with the banging, but so far I'm unimpressed by the meteorological mayhem. We're pulling ~40mph winds, but unfortunately that's not too much higher than normal.

Check out the rest of the photos on the facebook album

The Narth of Arland

Yeah, that's how someone from there would say it. It's funny the things you don't think about before you visit a place, like the fact that Ireland has a whole range of completely different accents. At home people would be hard-pressed to reproduce the difference between an Irish and a Scottish accent.
Anyway, we paid IES 200 Euro flat to take us on a trip to the North, which is decent considering the quality of our accommodation and the fact that we didn't have to worry about logistics. The train ride northward is arguably the most scenic, as it has more vertical topography than do the rides to Galway or Cork. You also go along the coast for a considerable distance. We had the (mis)fortune of sitting across the isle from a smelly old man with a great beard but whose eggs were completely addled. When he realized we were American he wouldn't leave us alone. He went so far as to wake Perry up and demand that he invent a caption for this picture of Obama and Clinton in a newspaper he had. He then went on a long rant about how the economy was collapsing, replete with statistics, most of which were "80%." Roughly 80% of the statistics he quoted were "80%."
As we arrived in Belfast we immediately boarded a bus that took us to the city center, which we should have walked. We disembarked to have lunch at Belfast's Crown Bar. This bar is a famous establishment with lavish Victorian decorations and elaborate woodcarving. We had what I thought was a lovely meal. This meal will be revisited later.
Outside the Crown the group (which contained roughly 40 people) piled in to "black taxis" to take a tour of West Belfast - a sectarian "hot-zone." These ubiquitous black cabs, like the ones found in London, are a sort of alternative bus service for the people of Belfast, most of whom have been historically mistrustful of using common public transport in rough areas. A specific fleet of them acts as a guide service for tourists.

We stopped first at the Shankill Road, a Loyalist stronghold, and got out to take pictures and hear a short bit about Loyalism. I'll put one mural up here, for the rest of them I'll direct you to a link to my Facebook album that has more pictures at the bottom of this post.
Much of the Loyalist graffiti and mural had to do with internal feuding and drug traffic. As Catholics have improved their situation with the thawing of relations, many Protestant communities have been left behind, resulting in economic and community stagnation.
From the Shankill we moved on to the Peace Line, one of many large walls that separate the "Interface areas" of the two communities. These were erected by the British back in the 70s to prevent late-night traffic and the throwing of projectiles back and forth. At the Peace Line we were given a short talk by one of the strangest sounding people I've ever met. As my camera unfortunately lacks sound on its video, I lack an example but some of my friends got one, so I'll insert it here if I can get my hands on a copy.
From the Peace Line thence to the Falls road, a Republican/Catholic area. Some of you may recall my shenanigans walking around alone in the Falls on my previous visit to the North. About the time we entered this area, I realized that something was very wrong in my gastrointestinal command center. Attempting to remain calm while stuffed in a cab with 7 other people, I hoped for the storm to pass. At a small IRA memorial garden that you will not see pictures of unless you look in my previous trip's archive, I executed a perfect ninjavomiting maneuver. Without attracting the attention of the 40+ onlookers, the speaker, or the cluster of chatting cab drivers, I managed to empty the entire contents of my stomach onto the sidewalk, and then proceed as if nothing had happened. Passers-by apparently treated the cesspool of ralph that had not been there before as a glitch in the Matrix.
Our tour ended with some Republican murals on the Falls that you have all probably seen on my other reports. We almost died at the Bobby Sands mural because Gabe saw a little kid with a mohawk and proceeded to take pictures of him while his disgruntled father leered on.
We boarded the bus again for our journey to Portrush, which by the way is nowhere near Belfast. Many dark sorceries and evil machinations were done inside the tiny lavatory of that bus as it bumped along. The drive, most of it along the coast, was beautiful, although I slept through most of it because my stomach still needed to be settled. 2-odd hours later we arrived in Portrush, which is on the northern coast of County Antrim, near the Giant's Causeway.
Our Ramada was quite a nice hotel, and I was put in a room with Danny. Everyone went to a small pizza parlor for supper, and was told by surly hotel staff that food was not allowed to be brought in to the hotel "for health and safety reasons." Handles of liquor, however, were not so easy for them to spot. The showers in the hotel were of such quality that they were used recreationally by our group - I and many others took multiple showers a day, many of them longer than 20 minutes.
The first night we went to a local pub/pool-hall called Rogue's. Everyone got housed and when we left with two friendly locals, that is, 20 of us, we were convinced to go over to their apartment. When we passed our hotel I made a conservative choice to retire, which proved the right choice when the next morning I discovered that my friends had been made to walk for 30 minutes to get there. In the morning we boarded the bus and went to nearby Bushmills to visit the Bushmills whiskey distillery. It is the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in Ireland. While the Jameson Distillery in Dublin is a good experience with a creative tasting session at the end, Bushmills really shows you how whiskey is made. We were allowed access to the actual mash vats, distillers, and bottling facilities. All of these rooms had very pungent smells and oppressive temperatures, but the sheds where the barrels are kept for aging smelled amazing - like sweet apples mixed with wood. It was interesting to learn how whiskey is blended by using different kinds of wood in the casks, sometimes changing several times over a period of years. After having a nice glass of whiskey to start off the morning, we got back on the bus to go to the Giant's Causeway.
By this time in the day the wind was ramping up and there was a light rain in the air. The Causeway sits on a small peninsula on the northern coast of Northern Ireland, not far from Scotland. We had a quick lunch at a pub near the visitor's center and went in for a small video. Always prepared, I had my rainpants ready to rock. Some members of the group looked disparagingly at my attire...how sorry they would be when we descended the rocky slope to the seashore.
I've done a lot of backpacking in my time, and I've experienced wind in the Adirondacks and places like Icewater Springs that gusted between 50 and 70mph. I can state categorically that the gusts at the Causeway were the most intense I've ever felt, and must have been well in excess in 70mph. At times it was basically impossible to walk against the wind, and at times I was literally forced to take steps in a specific direction because the wind was blowing me along the ground. Really, I'm glad it was that intense. It added to the severity and harshness of the environment and enhanced the richness of the experience.
The Giant's Causeway is basically a peninsula of black, hexagonal, basalt rock cylinders that were formed millions of years ago by volcanic rock cooling and cracking in geometric patterns. For further info on the Causeway, check out the captions of the facebook album - I go into more detail. We ventured as far out on the Causeway as we dared - high winds and monster waves made the area extremely hazardous, and yes people die there every year. Needless to say, I did a lot of yelling and whooping, usually involving the word "extreme."
We walked along the shore of the bight - yes, "bight," a small bay bordered by two promontories or headlands. Richard Spencer the geography major took issue with my initial naming of it as a "lagoon," as it lacked a sandbar at its mouth, as is his prerogative. At the opposite end of the bight is another exposed section of columns in the cliff face, known as the "Giant's Organ"
This picture looks over the top of the Causeway columns across the bight to the opposite headland. Once on the other side, we took a steep trail that switch-backed up the side of the ridge, and emerging on top, walked along the edge overlooking the Causeway back to the green pastures and the visitor's center overhead. Gabe and I were the last back, having been too busy punching sheep to return punctually.
When we returned to Portrush, we had a break which virtually everyone used to squeeze in an additional shower (in fairness, a salty film covered everyone's face from the sea-spray), and nap. The Hobbit on audiobook was perfect for knocking me out. After our break, we were scheduled to have a group supper at a nearby restaurant. Once we arrived, it quickly became apparent that groups of 40 people were not suited for this particular establishment. Though the food was of great quality, table service was not normal and the staff were too few to handle our party. Ordering took no less than an hour. After two and a half more hours had elapsed, I enjoyed a nice steak dinner. At least we had a chance to work up an appetite.
I might add that all during dinner and break time, Chris was wrapped around the toilet hurling up his soul. Something, we're still not sure what, possessed his innards of a deathly affliction. He apparently was at that unhappy stage of human existence where he was chugging water strictly to have something to throw up. We gave Chris our pity, and prepared to go back to the pub.
At the pub we staked out the snooker table. I'm not even sure if what we were playing was snooker, but I know that the balls were only two colors and the 8-ball, and they were smaller than pool balls. Gabe and I easily dispatched two hood-rats, but were eventually ousted from the table by a spider-monkeyesque younger man and his bonny lass. At least I got a kiss on the cheek out of it. There was a live band in the pub this night, consisting of two guitar-wielding men with a loop machine and pints of lager. They were playing some pretty stock Rolling Stones type tunes, then they realized that 70% of their audience were Americans. They hastily rolled out Sweet Home Alabama, which I took full boisterous ownership of in my inebriated state. The closing number was a rendition of Jimi Hendrix's Star Spangled Banner from Woodstock. An opportunist, to be sure.
As a brief caveat, I have made it my personal mission to find a live musician on this continent who can play me some Styx. I'm interested for a number of reasons - to see people's reactions when I request Styx, to see their attempt at playing Styx, and also simply to hear Styx because I like them. These gentlemen had no Styx in their repertoire...I doubt sincerely they had the vocal capability to manage, though I would have loved to witness the attempt. Their reaction was a mixture of apology and confusion. Look for new chapters to come; the saga continues...
On the final day of our journey we visited Dunluce Castle on our way out of Portrush. Dunluce is a cluster of ruined buildings that lie on a cliff that juts out into the ocean, separated from the mainland by a narrow rocky bridge. It was a prehistoric hillfort in a bygone age, a Norman palisade from the 11th century on, and the residence of the O'Donnells - Scots, from the 15th century on. The 17th century saw the castle's heyday as well as its collapse - literally.
Having been impressively expanded and fortified and lavishly furnished and decorated, part of the kitchen collapsed into the ocean in the mid 17th century, taking kitchen staff with it. As nice as the castle must have been, it's in a rough place - the sea and wind constantly batter the cliff face that it rests on, and it must have taken the brunt of gales that blow in off the ocean.
From Dunluce we cut through the center of Northern Ireland through Ballymena straight to Belfast, rather than driving along the coast as we had on our way to Portrush. We had to kill time eating bad sandwiches in the train station for a few hours, but finally boarded the train back to Dublin. As luck would have it, we sat next to a 7-man stag party, who drank several large flagons of spirits and whose laughter increased in volume steadily as we steamed southward. It was nice to get off the train back in Dublin and start using Euros again.



Check out the rest of the photos I took on this facebook album.